Travel 2009-2011

Warm Wellington Weather

2011-12-22T12:59:00.001+13:00

The weather gods, in their wisdom, have elected this year to grant us fabulous weather over Christmas. This would be great riding weather too. Alas, Mainfreight, true to form, have failed again to deliver our bikes anywhere near the date promised. It will now be the new year before we see them. Good thing we bought a car!

Meanwhile however we are catching up on medical and dental requirements. Oops, better keep renting the house out - or maybe we'll go to Bangkok for cheaper dental work.

A New Zealand RV

2011-12-12T07:56:00.001+13:00

But where is the satellite dish?

Porirua Sunrise

2011-12-12T07:54:00.000+13:00

The view from our bedroom.

Passing the time

2011-12-09T15:38:00.001+13:00

We are presently sitting on the deck of our friend Herman's flat in Titahi Bay, gazing over the sunlit Porirua Harbour, and watching the trains rumbling up and down across the water.

Our bikes are on the high seas in a container on their way to Wellington, and we hope to be re-united with them by the new year. After riding every day for six months, not to mention the eighteen months before that, we do miss them. So many hours have our heads been in our helmets that they have become moulded to their shape.

9 December 2011

Hey hey back in Wellington

2011-12-02T17:02:00.001+13:00

... where the cars are small; the roads are narrow and the wind is a constant companion..

Ursala

Apostasy

2011-11-29T17:29:00.001+13:00

Having returned home and found ourselves, inevitably, without transport and in need of high mobility to cope with our continuing peripatetic lifestyle we took the plunge.

And here it is, 1000cc of the most fun driving I've had since my Fiat 850 Sport.

One fifth the price of my V-Strom. There's a moral there somewhere....

Marco
29 November 2011

Eclectic

2011-11-29T17:21:00.001+13:00

"Scenic View 1/2 Mile" is a sign we often see along the road through some of the more picturesque countryside. Pretty often though, the view spot is actually way less scenic than the 1/2 mile before it where you just can't park your car, or bike. Often there are trees, hills, or on one memorable occasion several poles and a web of power lines obscuring the view. We scratch our heads and ride on.

Vault toilets, the US term for a long drop, are available at almost every viewpoint, and certainly in all the camp grounds, even most of the informal free campsites. They are remarkably clean, always supplied with toilet paper, and of a warm yet airy design which keeps them pretty well odor free.

Overtaking- something American drivers don't seem very good at. Often we slow down and pull to the left to let them past, especially the tail draggers. They slow down too, we slow down more, so do they. Eventually they get the message, but often overtake with only a small marginal speed difference.

Stop Signs:- So many 4 way stop signs. The signs and the lines where you are supposed to stop are generally so far back from the intersection that you can't tell if anything is coming. So you roll forward 'til you can see.

Road works:- Often we see the dreaded road works sign that says "Expect delays up to 30 minutes." I've never encountered anything like this in NZ. Here they block off around 5 miles of road while working on around 500 metres somewhere in the middle. Then there is a pilot vehicle to follow. This means that each queue of cars has to wait while the other queue traverses the whole 5 miles.
I have read that Americans don't bother to benchmark themselves against global best practices, they assume their way must be the best.

Speed signs:- Most countries around the world have adopted the international standard for speed signs. A white circular sign with a bright red border, and the speed in black letters on the white background. It's clear, it's obvious, and, most of all, it's a standard. But not here in the USA. Nope. Here the signs are square, white, with black letters. In addition there is usually extra information on the sign. Sometimes an arrow pointing upwards, which means the speed limit indicated will come into effect somewhere further down the road. Sometimes with the word school above it, indicating it only relates to school hours. Sometimes the word "End Of" appear above the numbers, which can leave one in some doubt about what the speed limit is now. What's more it is very often the case that entering a new speed zone, such as when entering a highway, one is left wondering what the highway speed limit is, 50, 55, 60, 70, or 75. Eventually one sees another sign, and ambiguity is eliminated.

Littering:- Highways in America are largely litter free. Most carry signs setting out the penalties for littering. Ones I have seen range from $300 to $2000. This, one would think, would give pause to all but the most hardened litterati. There may be another reason the roads are litter free. Every couple of miles there is an "Adopt a highway" sign beside the road, carrying the name of some person, family, group, or organization, that has taken responsibility for keeping that stretch of highway clean. Whether they go round regularly with a fork and bag and clean it up, or hide in the sagebrush waiting to spot a litterer so they can dob him in is not clear.
In any case, in most states the "Adopt ...." signs are white on a blue background. Unfortunately for the touring motorcyclist, so are most of the signs that actually carry useful information. This makes these signs about as welcome as ads every four minutes during 'The Green Mile' on television!

No Overtaking (Passing) zones:- These are signaled, as in most countries, by continuous yellow lines on your side of the centre line. In New Mexico they are augmented by two further signs. A triangular yellow sign on the opposite side of the road, with one apex horizontal towards your side of the road, marked "No Passing Zone". The other, a sign in the same format as the speed signs, white, square, carrying, in black text, the words "Do not pass".
Not much doubt then, no passing here!
At the end of the no passing zone the continuous line ends, and a further white sign states"Pass with care". I often do.
In California non extra signage is added, just like in NZ. What does it mean?

So good to be home!

Marco
29 November 2011

Welington

2011-11-26T09:48:00.001+13:00

It's cold, windy and overcast on our first day back in the Capital

My location is LAX waiting 2 go 2 NZ

2011-11-24T16:13:00.001+13:00

http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&q=33.941475,-118.406963&spn=22.213824,28.125000

Ursala O

The last day in LA

2011-11-24T03:59:00.001+13:00

I am coming to terms with the ending of the grand motorcycle tour and returning to NZ. People have been generous - everyone ... Fellowship people, CSers, and complete strangers. I've been breathless over the fantastic scenery. I've been terrified by some of the terrain I've ridden over (but survived!). I've laughed and shared meals with friends. I've watched the stars in the desert, watched full moon rises, seen bears and coyotes; fantastic cacti; giant redwoods and seen last season's snow and new snow and the turning of autumn leaves.

...oh yes and crossed the Continental Divide once in Canada and at maybe more than half a dozen places in USA...

Definitely an adventure of a lifetime.

Ursala

Great food experiences

2011-11-24T03:53:00.001+13:00

As we are nearing the end I've been reflecting on our food experiences. As you know when we camp it is very basic. Eating out, we like to eat Mexican because often it is good and it's cheap. Next choice is burgers (because it's America!)

So not including eating at people's homes I've tried to remember some terrific "eats"

In LA it was Baja Fresh.... a Mexican chain...consistently good.

In SFO our hosts took us to a fantastic (and cheap) Chinese dumplings eatery .... Fabulous enough for a return visit on the way back south.

We had good Mexican food at both Grafton and Eureka in CA.

I had an exceptionally good salad at Packwood in Washington.

We enjoyed Rudy's Mexican in Mesa Arizona on several occasions.

The dates we purchased directly from China Ranch at Tecopa California were yummy as were the fresh pecans we bought directly from the processing plant at Sahuarita Arizona.

We had a surprisingly good Mexican at Gila Bend Arizona which is a fairly dreary place with a supermarket with empty shelves but this little local place was busy as.

Ursala

The Last Roadside Brew-up

2011-11-23T19:05:00.001+13:00

End of the Grand Tour

2011-11-22T19:25:00.004+13:00

After cleaning the bikes, swimming, and relaxing with our CS friends in Salton, we ride into LA to Compton. After some luggage re-arrangement, and lunch at the Rancho Enterprises noodle house, we pick up our rental car, and drop off the bikes to Kiwi Shippers. It is all very easy, seems too easy really, and we are on our way to our CS host in Glendale.
We land, for our last two nights in the US, in a 1932 Spanish style mansion filled with original art, Persian carpets, a grand piano, and all the trappings of luxury, overlooking downtown LA 20 miles to the south, and a large expanse of northern LA laid out below us.
Our own super king bed, and an ensuite. It's very like our last two nights in Bombay, except there are no slums next to the building. A great way to wind down.

Marco

Farewell

2011-11-22T19:12:00.001+13:00

The bikes head into the shipping warehouse.

Salton City

2011-11-18T14:01:00.001+13:00

CS in Salton http://bit.ly/uX3fCe

Hemet - the second time

2011-11-17T17:28:00.001+13:00

In June we drove from Salton City to LA over route 47 through Hemet. This road climbs so steeply out of Palm Desert that there is a notice on the road advising drivers to turn off their air conditioning to avoid engine overheating.

The road runs through a series of 270 degree curves, and is a great ride on a motorcycle. We did it today riding over the pass to Hemet, and back again on a loop via Anza so that we did the curving climb both up and down.

Just had to come back and do it on the bikes.

Marco
16 November 2011

Desert scene

2011-11-16T19:33:00.001+13:00

Bikes in the desert, again.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park

2011-11-16T15:58:00.001+13:00

Box Canyon on way to Mecca

2011-11-16T12:22:00.000+13:00

Ursala restrains Cranley at 29 Palms

2011-11-16T12:19:00.001+13:00

Salton, again

2011-11-16T12:16:00.000+13:00

When we speak of visiting, and revisiting, the Salton Sea we see laughter hovering behind eyes unsure whether we are jesting. Some frown and ask why.
They have not ridden down the south side of Joshua Tree National Park, across the I-10, down the Box Canyon Road into Mecca.
After leaving our free campsite at Amboy, and ascending the merged alluvial fans forming a pass at 4000 feet, through a landscape strewn with huge boulders smoothed to lewdly suggestive shapes, we enter a forest of Joshua trees populating the the rock and sand desert.
The road descends slowly through a vast valley, dry for the last 9000 years, where once a river ran providing for the ancient Pinto Indians. Jagged pastel mountains hazily rim the valley, and the road curves its gradual way down to the highway.
Crossing the I-10 we enter a wide shallow canyon recently swept by floods that have,over the ages, carved its sandstone cliffs revealing layers lying at jumbled angles that reflect its proximity to the great San Andreas Fault.
Just as the canyon's walls reach their most fantastic, we emerge into the valley of the Salton Sea. The sea lies glittering before us, filling the valley with a humid fog stretching all the way north to Palm Springs. The air, up to now a crackling dry blast, turns moist, still cool, and we ride into Mecca for a delicious Mexican meal at the Plaza Garibaldi.
Welcome back to Salton.

Marco
15 November 2011

Bagdad Cafe

2011-11-15T17:09:00.001+13:00

Nearing the end but not quite...

2011-11-15T17:08:00.002+13:00

We have done a bit of riding at altitudes of up to 6,000 ft and there is snow on the ground and it is rather cold riding so I think we've done all we are going to do up that high.

Today we followed some more of Historic Route 66 back into the Mojave Desert. Our route took us past the Baghdad Cafe in Newberry Springs. This is the cafe which was was the location used for the movie of the same name.

Tonight we are camping at the Amboy Crater (last eruption a mere 10,000 years ago) and pretty much on lava flow at a mere 600 ft elevation. Check it out! The sunset was fabulous, the clear sky gives us a star filled early evening. It's fully dark by 5:30pm. We hear the trains (and a four whistle blow for the crossing in nearby almost extinct town of Amboy) along the nearby BNSF (Burlington Northern Santa Fe) railroad and we are waiting for the moonrise ... If we can stay awake until 7:53pm!

What more could you want...and it's free!

Ursala
14 November 2011

View from our host's house in King City

2011-11-14T18:34:00.000+13:00

Kern Canyon, Bakersfield

2011-11-14T17:43:00.001+13:00

Bakersfield

2011-11-13T15:27:00.000+13:00

We took a day ride to Lake Isabella. The road runs along highway 178 up the Kern Canyon, beside a fabulous sparkling river running between granite boulders worn from the cliffs on either side. The lake is, like most lakes in the US, a reservoir, and lies in a bowl surrounded by granite and schist mountains, very picturesque.
After lunch at Taco Del Mar we head back along route 155. This runs up to 6000 feet with plowed snow lying beside the road and in the forest, and we ride carefully back down to Bakersfield on a gritted road.
Coming back into Bakersfield from the north, we pass through fields filled with nodding oil pumps sucking black gold from the ground like ominous steel Mosquitos. This is California oil country, and Bakersfield, a large and rich town, is home to a refinery.
A day of contrasts.

Marco
12 November 2011

Oil Country

2011-11-12T16:27:00.000+13:00

Motorcycling Couch Surfers

2011-11-12T16:25:00.000+13:00

Field Workers, King City, CA

2011-11-12T16:21:00.000+13:00

King City etc

2011-11-12T16:19:00.000+13:00

After camping in the Memorial park just out of Pescadero, where we had ridden with Blaise and his friend in June, we headed off as cross country as possible to our CS host in King City.
It was great to couch surf again after around three months, it's such a great community. On Wednesday we rode along G14 from King City to the coast and Route 1. We had done the last part of this ride from fort Legget in June but had forgotten all about it. It is a fabulous road, twisting and turning through high meadows conifer forest and pampas covered hills down to the coast. It has the most stunning views. We did it late in the afternoon after having done our own final oil changes in the US in our CS host's garage. So as soon as we hit the coast we headed straight back up the hill for home - it's getting dark at 5:30pm now. This ride is like the the Paekakariki Hill road times ten. By the time we got back we were rolling through the twisties about twice as fast as when we went down. a great day.
Next day we headed off for Bakersfield along route 58. The road heads through San Arbo, an area peppered with oils wells slowly rocking up and down pulling oil out of the ground. Bakersfield itself lies on a vast plain which today was extremely windy.
In the evening we had a Skype session with mum for her 90th Birthday - technology is wonderful! Paella for dinner and cheesecake for dessert. Another great day AND Apple has released the unlocked iPhone 4S!

Marco
11/11/11

Starbucks

2011-11-10T12:55:00.001+13:00

King City, Starbucks http://bit.ly/vLmXgD

Off onto new territory

2011-11-08T19:19:00.000+13:00

We make our way to Salinas in the most indirect route possible. Criss crossing the hills and valleys taking in Saratoga, Los Gatos, Coyote (a special visit for the mascot!), Watsonville, San Juan Bautista and over a very curvy but rough road Salinas Road to our CS host.... Great riding

We enjoyed an evening of good food and laughter round the table with a good suggestion for a day ride tomorrow.

Ursala

Couch surfing California style

2011-11-08T18:43:00.000+13:00

San Francisco beach

Pretty flowers

2011-11-08T11:44:00.000+13:00

At Stanford Shopping Mall (near Redwood City)

Me and Cranley the Coyote

2011-11-08T11:42:00.000+13:00

Outside Coyote CA Post Office

Tail of the dragon...

2011-11-08T11:36:00.001+13:00

...reluctantly going out the door in to the cold autumn air after several days with the rellies we head up to SFO to have Chinese dumplings for lunch with CS friends. We stuff ourselves to maximum capacity and take a stroll along the beach and watch a bit of the surf competition.

The clouds are gathering in the north so we hurry into the afternoon heading south.

We've already travelled the coast road and it's windy and cold so head inland and find ourselves a camp amongst the redwoods in the San Mateo Memorial Park. Pricey and cold and damp but it's not windy. We have one campground companion who has a roaring fire and we don't hesitate to accept the invitation to warm ourselves.

This is the first time these camping fires actually makes sense to us as it is cold. It can't be that cold as we sleep ok.

Ursala O

New photo link

2011-11-06T14:27:00.000+13:00

Please see the new photo link called "Picasa Album" under Blog Links. Subsequent photos will be added here instead of on the "Travel Photos" link. The Travel Photos Link will remain active until June 2012, after which it will vanish, along with MobileMe. Roll on iCloud.

Blog photos in Picasa

2011-11-06T14:11:00.001+13:00

Hi,

With MobileMe Gallery due to vanish, I'm looking at other options.

This is all the photos we have put on the blog so far.

https://picasaweb.google.com/114071268710544053960/Travel20092011?authkey=Gv1sRgCJbq6ZWuy7L-pQE

Me in my new helmet

2011-11-06T14:04:00.000+13:00

They can't fail to spot me in this!

Redwood City

2011-11-06T14:03:00.001+13:00

So here we are staying with family in Redwood City. This is just a few miles up the road from Palo Alto, Menlo Park, and all those places closely associated with the Silicon Valley revolution.
Next door lives the guy who invented Yahoo Groups, just a few miles away is the house where Steve Jobs used to live. And here I am writing this on an iPad.
We are spending around four nights here, and have been seriously chilling out. Our main activities have been going to a few shops and eating. So far I have bought a new helmet, because I couldn't resist the colour, fluorescent yellow. Since the unlocked iPhone 4S has not yet hit the Apple stores, I haven't bought one of those, yet.
All this required some serious future cash flow analysis - so far so good.
At last we have managed to arrange some more couch surfing, which we haven't done since Idaho. Our camping routine has become well bedded in, but some more friendly American hosts will be welcome.
We have done a preliminary clean on our bikes, which need to be gleaming to be let back into NZ, and will do another thorough clean in Salton City in a couple of weeks.
So next week my mother turns 90, and here we are not even in town for the event. However Skype plans have been laid so we can at least wish her happy birthday, on the iPad, thanks again Steve. She's having a grand piano brought in for the occasion, and her house ain't that big. Should be fun.
So, with Jobs gone at well under my age, I ponder on a couple of quotes surrounding the man: "If you live each day as if it was your last, someday you'll most certainly be right." And, from Wordsworth,
"Bliss was it in that dawn to be alive
But to be young was very heaven!"

Marco
Guy Fawkes 2011

After Yosemite

2011-11-04T04:42:00.001+13:00

This National Park was refreshing after spending time in the desert. I asked the ranger what will we encounter (meaning will there be bears)? His response was "usual stuff, trees, lakes and hikes"....silly me!

It is a hikers paradise with pretty lakes for swims and lots of trees. At this time there are still autumn leaves around but it was pretty cold but still plenty of visitors.

Another motel in Mariposa followed by a fantastic curvy ride (50miles with a climb from 170ft elevation up and over past Mt Hamilton Observatory at over 4,000 ft and back down and into San Jose. The route is CA Hwy 130... Fantastic riding. The road surface a bit rumply in places but all sealed road and not much traffic... Check it out

http://www.motorcycleroads.us/roads/ca130.html

Followed by a nightmare of five lanes of screaming traffic on the freeway to Redwood City... The freeways and the inconsiderate behavior of the motorists is appalling... Cutting in, cars overtaking in OUR lane...scary scary scary!

At the end we again enjoying the luxury of a comfortable family home with rellies

Ursala

Yosemite

2011-11-03T14:30:00.003+13:00

Everyone said we must go, so we did, without really knowing what we would encounter. Riding in from Lee Vining where, after having rejected a few wild camping locations, we checked into a motel because it was getting late, and cold, we headed up highway 120. This road crosses the park from east to west, climbs up to over 9000 feet, and is closed in Winter. The maximum forecast temperature for today was 54 degrees Fahrenheit, around 12 Celsius, so we wore everything we could on the bikes. This made it difficult to turn our heads, but we almost stayed warm. There were some threatening clouds about, but fortunately we soon emerged into clear blue sky at around 7000 feet. At the park entrance the ranger was happy to wave us past with our motorcycle decals. We wondered why, like every other national park in the last three months, he did not want to see our annual pass AND some ID. Aaaah, we are back in laid-back California!
The scenery was sure spectacular, and we stopped for photos whenever we could find a spot of sunshine. A great ride too, with plenty of curves, and hills.
By the afternoon we reached the Yosemite Valley, at only around 4000 feet. This lies between the most amazing towering granite cliffs with 600 foot waterfalls streaming into the valley. lunch at the swinging bridge picnic spot, and more photos, including around 20 fat fish lounging in the clear pool under the bridge.
A long ride out to the Diamond D campground out in the wops, only to find it is a figment of the Garmin POI database, there being just a private fenced paddock. So on to Mariposa and another motel. Luxury!

Marco
1/11/11

Route 168/120

2011-11-03T14:30:00.001+13:00

168 running from the 95 north of Beatty to Bishop, and then 120 running from the 6 north of Bishop to Lee Vining, this is a fabulous bit of motorcycle road. It does have some long straight bits, but also has around 20 miles of tight curves through some spectacular scenery. We would loved to have done some bits twice. It should be on the great rides list.

Marco
2/11/11

Massive Rock at Yosemite

2011-11-02T15:48:00.000+13:00

Death Valley Day Two

2011-11-01T10:08:00.001+13:00

After breakfast of muesli and the fresh dates we bought yesterday from the Date Farm just south of the valley, we headed further north.
Death Valley is a sinking fold between two ranges of mountains that have been thrusting upwards for several million years. They tower like rocky frills along the sides of the valley, scoured by wind and water that washes them slowly into the valley. The floor of the valley is around 300 feet below sea level, which seems a lot, until you find out that, were it not filled with silt, sand and rocks washed off the surrounding ranges, the valley floor would be 9000 feet below sea level. That's a lot of shingle! 9000 feet- that would make it nearly two miles deep. If that was filled with water the pressure at the bottom would be around 4000 pounds per square inch. Given rock is, well, somewhat denser than water, the stuff at the bottom will be well on its way to becoming the next set of mountains.
After lunch we made camp for the night at Mesquite Springs, and then did a small tour taking in the Ubehebe Crater, a mere 2000 years old, and Scotty's Castle, a millionaire's folly in the desert you have to see to believe.
It appears we have been lucky with the weather. A couple of days ago the valley was filled with wind borne dust. And, we are told, there is a storm coming in the next few days that will drop the temperature further. Onwards to Yosemite!

Marco
30 October 2011

Riding into "The Valley"

2011-11-01T10:07:00.000+13:00

Death Valley is as American as Route 66. We've come at the right time as it has cooled down and the camp fees went up to high season two weeks ago!

Before dropping down below sea level we climbed up to about 3,000 ft and down, down, down. The colours on the eastern side of the valley were beautiful in the afternoon light. There is even a scenic side trip called the Artists Palette where the hills are multiple colored including some copper deposits.

The only wildlife we saw was a gopher (we think) and a few quail.

I can see why artists come to try and capture the beauty of this magnificent landscape ... You just have to be here...

Our second day of riding had more breathtaking scenery. Rock layers almost vertical in places and a jumble of multiple colored rocks in other places.

Price gouging for petrol is rife - a whopping (for US standards) $5.54 per gallon here in Death Valley National Park. In Tucson the price was $3.40 per gallon!

Ursala

Death Valley Day One

2011-11-01T10:04:00.001+13:00

After spotting a tarantula wandering about in the Mojave near our campsite, we headed off north towards death valley. Kelso was interesting with the old railway station house still intact, and containing an old fashioned cafe where we had cinnamon rolls and hot chocolate.
Next we headed off for Shoshone where there was some sort of craft show happening, but we were only interested in gas. We were bemused after pulling into the service station well in front of an ambulance, which was neither sounding its siren nor flashing its lights, to be told off by the, I suppose, craft fair marshals for 'Blocking the ambulance's exit.' Of course in some places here all traffic will come to a halt for a pedestrian who looks like he might be about to cross the road, so perhaps the presence of an ambulance in the same universe as us should have called for a halt.
Anyway, on into Death Valley on route 178, which the ranger in Kelso had told us to avoid as it was boring and tricky, having many blind curves, and jittery coyotes. I have to say, route 178 through Death Valley is one of the most scenic and enjoyable rides I've had for weeks. You can't always trust a ranger. Fortunately the high today was a mere 83 Fahrenheit. At 300 odd feet below sea level it's quite a blast.
And so to camp on the mandatory gravel in the Furnace Creek campground.

Marco
29 October 2011

Scotty's Castle DV

2011-11-01T10:01:00.001+13:00

Photo taken from Scotty's grave overlooking the castle

Clock Tower at Scotty's Castle DV

2011-11-01T10:00:00.001+13:00

The story of conman and cowboy Scotty and his friendship with Chicago millionaire Albert Johnson and his wife Bessie.

And this "folly" in DV

It's worth a lookup on the web

... More of the fab DV

2011-11-01T09:57:00.002+13:00

Ubehebe Crater DV

2011-11-01T09:57:00.001+13:00

Zabrieski Point DV

2011-11-01T09:56:00.001+13:00

Marco at Artists DriveDV

2011-11-01T09:55:00.003+13:00

Artists drive Death Valley

2011-11-01T09:55:00.001+13:00

Sunrise from other direction at campsite

2011-11-01T09:53:00.000+13:00

Mohave Preserve at sunset

2011-11-01T09:50:00.001+13:00

Mohave Preserve

2011-11-01T09:49:00.003+13:00

Route 66

2011-11-01T09:49:00.001+13:00

People write messages or their names in stones or glass etc along the old railway embankment

Camping in the Mojave

2011-10-30T07:41:00.001+13:00

Names on Route 66

2011-10-30T07:40:00.001+13:00

The Flood Plain

2011-10-30T07:38:00.000+13:00

Early on after leaving Tucson, we reached Ajo, a town built in the Spanish style, by a now abandoned copper mine. Although consisting mainly of a small park with a central raised circular flower bed, surrounded on three sides by porticoed shops, and a couple of very European looking churches, the little town put me in mind of Barcelona.
At the end of the day we camped just out of Palo Verde by a reedy bend of the Colorado.
Leaving our campsite next morning, we set out across south eastern California. The land is austere and flat, to start with just desert. As we travel further west and north we return to the Colorado River, now traversing it's flood plain, lying mostly around 300 feet above sea level. Here the valley floor must be hundreds of feet deep in stone and sand, gouged, eroded and washed out of what is now the Grand Canyon. The soil (a misnomer really) appears a uniform tan, but closer inspection shows lumps of every kind of rock the river has cut through over the millennia. The river has now of course been tamed by the Hoover Dam. Near a town called Blythe the river's lazy meander has been channelled in to canals that run in zig zags like a carpenter's folding ruler through the valley, irrigating the flat plains and turning them green. Cotton, hay, and other unidentifiable crops cover the land. No wonder there is little water left to sweeten the Salton Sea.
After a lazy mocha and some WiFi at Starbucks, we continue west, and re-make our acquaintance with Route 66. This area of south eastern California is dry and, in summer, hot. By good fortune the weather has cooled in the last few days, and we ride along in comfort in our serious riding gear. Off the Interstate there is not much traffic, and not much habitation. We fill up with gas at Amboy, consisting of a motel, a defunct diner, and two petrol pumps, and head north into the Mojave. Sagebrush desert, with here and there hills of super hard rock even the Colorado could not wear away sticking up, unadorned by vegetation of any kind. The road begins to climb and the sun to sink, so we soon stop at a sandy side road and set up camp. We have reached nearly 4000 feet, and, under a waning sickle moon, the night promises to be cold.
Tinned fish, three bean mix, and flat crackers for dinner, and into the tent with the last of the fading light. Luxury!

Marco
27 October 2011

Leaving Arizona

2011-10-29T05:31:00.000+13:00

Today was spent traveling quite close to the Mexican border. As a result we have been through three border patrol checkpoints today alone. At the last we were actually asked for our passports.

This requires us both to hop off the bikes and for me to partially (well almost!) undress to drag it from my secure wallet. In the meantime the traffic is starting to back up.

After a cursory glance they are returned and we put them away. Smile, hop on the bikes and ride away.

Today we spent at least an hour-and-half on the I-8 (the main freeway into San Diego). Mostly riding at around 70-75mph (about 110 miles). It was tiring and we were pleased to get off it once we got into California and started to head North.

We filled up with gas at a station after leaving Yuma. There is a convoy of military trucks moving onto the side road; a jeep with about five border patrol guys is also gassing up; and also are a couple of guys in a Forest Service vehicle. I feel insecure in this empty and somewhat hostile environment.

We ride on not sure of our camping options in this stark (not even the cacti are here!) but still stunning landscape and arrive at the Colorado River near Palo Verde and some free camping by the highway. A bit noisy but there are flush toilets, a tap with drinking water and a drain for dishes ...pretty good we think for free!

Ursala
27 Oct

Highway 78 near Palo Verde

2011-10-29T05:30:00.000+13:00

Tailings from copper mining ...

2011-10-29T05:29:00.000+13:00

.. no longer in operation outside Ajo Arizona

M with his new toy Coyote

2011-10-29T05:27:00.000+13:00

Saguaro Cactus

2011-10-29T05:26:00.002+13:00

Organ Pipe Cactus

2011-10-29T05:26:00.001+13:00

The Vault

2011-10-29T05:21:00.000+13:00

Known in NZ as the Long Drop

Bog Standard US

2011-10-29T05:20:00.000+13:00

Always much appreciated!

WiFi!

2011-10-29T05:18:00.000+13:00

Starbucks, Blythe, CA http://bit.ly/vKp5vV

Organ Pipe National Monument

2011-10-28T02:38:00.000+13:00

My chain had been making more and more ominous noises, and although these abated to a steady 'yang yang yang' at higher speed, I was constantly worried about the outcome of a thrown chain. So we headed to Ridewell Motorsports in Tucson, and soon got the verdict - the chain is toast, AND I need new rear tyre. So we ride 23 miles out to the rather pleasant Gilbert Ray campground on Ursala's bike, set up the tent, and ride the 23 miles back into town to pick up the now ready V-Strom. The new chain whines throatily on the old sprockets, we didn't have four days to wait for new ones, and the new low profile road tyre takes a few more revs at 100kph than the old one. But the bike feels great with the new tyre: the old one was flat from too many long straight roads. Yet another Mexican meal at 'Chewies' and we head back out to the campground and sleep.
Leaving the campground in the Tucson Mountain Park, we headed west across the desert. It's rather eerie riding through a cactus filled desert with millions of Saguaros poking out of the ground like ghoulish skeletons. Along the road are many crosses, reminders of loved ones lost to the road, to border patrol? Who knows? The road is dead straight, but in the distance we see a tall mountain, and as we get closer we see a tall white structure on top. Turns out this is the Kitt Peak observatory. You can see why they built it here. Kitt peak sticks around five thousand feet more or less straight out of the desert, so it is relatively easy to get to by road. It is only around 50 miles from Tucson, yet in the middle of the desert it is well away from city lights.
We decide to ride up to the observatory. As we do the wind becomes stronger and stronger, and the clouds, forming as the air rises up the south side of the mountain, spill over to our side. We remember a particularly scary day riding over the Rimutakas in strong winds. We spend about ten minutes at the top, and head back down, pursued, but not caught by our fears.
A couple more hours riding gets us to Why, and after having lunch at he picnic tables thoughtfully provided by the service station owners, we head down to the Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. Here you can see a type of cactus otherwise found only in Mexico. Not surprisingly as we make camp for the night a mere six kilometers from the border. Tales of drug smuggling and desperate illegal immigrants, and dozens of border control vehicles on the road, make our night nervous. If you are reading this, however, we came to no harm.

Marco
26 October 2011

Apparently It's Snowing in Denver

2011-10-27T12:57:00.001+13:00

Saguaro Sunset

2011-10-27T12:54:00.001+13:00

After being unable to find a suitable camp after leaving Tombstone and dodging most of the rain we find ourselves in Sierra Vista. we are here for a purpose - to visit Wells Fargo. We find a modestly priced but clean motel and go to the bank in the morning.

We plan to doge Tucson by going around it to the south but Marco's chain is complaining more loudly so decide we need to go to a bike shop. This means the I-19 and I-10... The upside is that I will be able to catch a meeting.

We cannot face another KOA in the roar of the freeway and opt for an out of town campground which turns out to be a delightful place in the desert with a gorgeous sunset and the distant howl of coyotes at night.

We are surrounded by Cacti. The Saguaro (also called the Sonoran Cacti) is spectacular. It is immediately identifiable as Saguaro but each is unique. Their secondary "arms" are amazing. We have seen some as tall as telegraph poles and our friend in Apache Junction says these tall ones can be hundreds of years old. I believe it only grows here in south Arizona... I love them and realize I missed them when we were in New Mexico.

Tomorrow we head into more desert as we continue to cross southern Arizona

Ursala
25 Oct

Sod's Law

2011-10-27T12:36:00.001+13:00

Why is it we find beautiful camping spots at the wrong time of the day? Early in the day we will find lovely places for camping and as an added bonus many of them are free! By late afternoon we are desperate for a camping place having found nothing!

Why is it that we see rest areas and roadside tables aplenty one day and none the next, or after riding 50 miles without spotting one when needed we pull up somewhere not very nice for coffee and as soon as we hop back on the bikes we come across an infinitely better or purpose built coffee spot?

Why is it that when we want a post office we might have to wait a day or two before we come to a place that seems to have one. Other times we don't need them and we see them at even really obscure little towns.

Why is it that when we are in a bigger town we rock up to the Starbucks hoping to get some wi-fi and find THAT one in particular, doesn't have it when almost everywhere else Starbucks boasts free wi-fi for it's customers!

That's the grumble blog ... Should do for a while!

Ursala
26 Oct

Tombstone

2011-10-27T12:18:00.001+13:00

We had to visit this tourist trap and were pleasantly surprised - touristic yes but not crammed with tourists.

Tombstone is where Billy the Kid spent his early life and the shoot out at the OK Corral with the Earp Brothers happened..all the good western movie stuff here with pseudo gunslingers strolling around the place!

Anyway we walked through the town and made ourselves a coffee on the old court house wall and the town Marshall came and chatted to us.

Ursala
25 Oct

Sierra Vista

2011-10-25T14:34:00.001+13:00

Casita Mexican Restaurant, Sierra Vista, New Mexico http://bit.ly/v670Lu

Crossing the Continental Divide

2011-10-24T18:56:00.001+13:00

Today (Sun 23 Oct) we crossed the Continental Divide again, this time will be the last time.
We crossed coming into New Mexico unceremoniously near the junction of NM Hwys 36 and 117. Today's crossing at least had a sign for this on NM Hwy 90 in the Gila Forest before down into Lordsburg. Silver City sits just east of the Divide at about 5,875 ft elevation.

I'm a bit sad...

Ursala

Elephant Butte Lake

2011-10-24T16:35:00.002+13:00

More Quarai Ruins

2011-10-24T16:35:00.001+13:00

Quarai Ruins NM

2011-10-24T16:34:00.000+13:00

Manzano Spring and lake NM

2011-10-24T16:33:00.001+13:00

Autumn colours New Mexico

2011-10-24T16:33:00.000+13:00

Limestone formation

2011-10-24T16:32:00.000+13:00

That's Marco in the orange cap

Sandstone cliff at edge of lava flow

2011-10-24T16:30:00.001+13:00

El Mapais New Mexico

Sod's Law

2011-10-24T16:24:00.001+13:00

Why is it we find beautiful camping spots at the wrong time of the day. This morning we passed two - both very pretty and free!

Ursala

Truth or Consequences...

2011-10-24T16:22:00.000+13:00

Yep only in the USA would a town change it's name to a TV programme

Ursala

T R C as the locals call it.

2011-10-24T15:38:00.000+13:00

Lordsburg

2011-10-24T15:31:00.003+13:00

So we tooled down the highway from our $8 campsite at Truth Or Consequences, and turned onto route 152 to Silver City. A Harley biker had alerted us to this route when we were heading east into New Mexico. The route runs from Hillsboro to Silver City over the Emory Pass, at 8000 feet, and past the gigantic Santa Rita opencast mine.
When the Europeans arrived in this area, several loosely connected bands of Indians lived in the ranges hereabouts. Since they were living on the best land around, well you would wouldn't you, the settlers soon drove them out, and indeed they were mostly transported south, never to be allowed to return to their own lands.
180 turns in 30 miles said our Harley riding informant. A great ride, and, in the middle, a with a magic campground where we had lunch. Here the slightest breeze brought russet coloured autumn leaves rustling down out of the trees like a crinkling snowstorm. I can just imagine this delightful occurrence when the Indians lived here, and no traffic passed by on the tarmacadam.
We continued on, hoping to find a similar spot later in the day, when we were ready to camp. Alas all too soon we were rolling into Lordsburg, where the KOA seemed the only alternative. The usual gravel tent site well within roaring distance of the I-10, which sounded, once the evening winds had died, like a jet airport two inches away. At least they have water, showers and WiFi! Whether it's worth $30 a night I would leave open to debate. Alas, soon after camping we found the Veteran's Park, where we could probably have camped, had we wished, for free, overseen by a rusty WWII tank.
Lordsburg looks like some desolate bankrupt wasteland, but apparently has a rich history in the annals of the New Mexican state. Feel free to research on Wiki. We did have a great and cheap meal at the "Real Mexican Food" restaurant.
And so to sleep, with exactly one month left in the US. Only a month? No we cried, - a whole month!

Marco
23 October 2011

Packs Cafe, Mountainair, New Mexico

2011-10-23T16:13:00.000+13:00

Albuquerque and south

2011-10-23T15:59:00.001+13:00

Our motorcycle friend and guide took us down the less travelled roads passing a beautiful spring and lake at Manzano.

We also rode through the Land Grants of Chililli, Torreon, and Manzano as well as passed the Gran Quivira Pueblo ruins (now a national monument). Impressive and thought provoking.

Our ride took us within 20 miles of the Trinity Test Site (the first atomic bomb was detonated here)

All fascinating facets of New Mexico's past and well worth a a bit of a look-up on the web if you're interested.

Ursala
22 Oct 8:56pm

Sent from my iPad

Guided Riding

2011-10-23T15:40:00.001+13:00

Our friend in Albuquerque and his partner led us on a circular tour ride on Friday, round the north of Albuquerque past Santa Fé, through Madrid, Los Alamos, and over some terrific mountain passes, past a huge caldera, of which we could see only a small part, because it is, like Yellowstone, a supervolcano which went off one and a quarter million years ago. It kind of dwarfed the first atomic bomb, developed at Los Alamos, and set off in the New Mexico desert on 16 July 1945.
Entering Los Alamos we passed a security checkpoint, instituted no doubt since 9/11. We were waved through. The Americans are clearly proud of their achievements in 1945, and the streets of Los Alamos carry apposite names. We crossed Bikini Atoll Road, Trinity Road, and Oppenheimer Drive. This is rather ironic, because J Robert Oppenheimer was driven out of the Los Alamos laboratories after the success of the first test, the Trinity bomb, which was largely attributable to his efforts.
We had lunch at Quiznos Sub, there not apparently being a Subway in Los Alamos.
We visited a turquoise museum run by a friend of our hosts where we obtained an obsidian tear, and some postcards.
Riding on we passed a limestone formation created by water coming from hot parts of the earth, and railway tunnels built on yet another old railroad used to service early mines.
All in all it was a great day's riding, a round trip of 400km.

Marco
21 October 2011

Smokey in his togs

2011-10-22T13:32:00.000+13:00

Along the Jemez River

2011-10-22T13:28:00.000+13:00

Albuquerque

2011-10-21T15:46:00.002+13:00

We had planned to shop for a number or requisites in Albuquerque and then head on south back towards Arizona and Tombstone. We went to a motorcycle store, the Whole Foods supermarket, and the REI. Then we had lunch at Garcia's Kitchen, inevitably another Mexican restaurant. We needed to go to another motorcycle shop as we had not yet got the chain lube we needed.
So, last stop out of town we dropped into a Honda dealer just before hitting the I-40. Just as we were leaving, up rolls Joey, a motorcyclist we had met in Blanding, Utah while staying at the very cheap Sunset Motel. Going back into the shop Ursala spotted a pair of nice looking motorcycle boots at a low price, way cheaper than New Zealand prices. Kerching! She bought them, and Joey took her old boots home for his partner. Joey invited us to his house, and we ended up in a lovely bedroom with ensuite, and an invitation to stay longer and go on a guided ride tomorrow along the interesting roads and sights. Done! We cried. Shelved our travel plans for the next few days and went with the flow.

Marco
20 October 2011

Sent from my iPad

Motorcycle Marvels

2011-10-21T15:31:00.001+13:00

We fell on our feet in Albuquerque!

Another arch - New Mexico

2011-10-21T02:53:00.001+13:00

We made it bigtime - Us in Pie Town

2011-10-20T18:04:00.001+13:00

Albuquerque

2011-10-20T17:24:00.000+13:00

We retraced our steps from Pie Town (42miles whoops wrong turn yesterday!) and proceeded to cross the Continental Divide at another location - pretty cold riding in the morning!

Our reward was to pass another lava field which abutts a huge sandstone cliff ... Very interesting

Then we braced ourselves for the I-40 into Albuquerque. Five lanes of mad drivers and trucks.

Now we are camping at the KOA which is adjacent to the highway and very noisy

Ursala
10:20pm 19 Oct

Wild Camping and other peculiarities

2011-10-20T04:33:00.001+13:00

Last night (17th) we camped at the Red Mountain Fire Interpretive Overlook...hmmm
N 33.40336 degrees
W 109.34122 degrees

Tonight we are camping in a town - almost a ghost town - called Pie Town ....hmmm..located in the state of New Mexico
N 34.29708 degrees
W 108.12988 degrees
It's called Jackson Park and Camp Ground. We can't figure out whether it is BLM land or possibly private land that has been abandoned. There are tracks and some old picnic tables but no facilities. Once again we are at 8,000 ft elevation which explains why we are panting after minor exertion after we've been lolling around in the heat at under 2,500 ft at Apache Junction and Las Vegas

Things we have learned about Pie Town including the town boasts two pie shops that close in the afternoon; being on the Continental Divide and having had a Pie Festival on Sept 10th (not sure of the year)! Off the highway there are a number of abandoned/burnt out houses and a few properties with dogs etc and we've seen a handful of people.

We've also discovered we have "lost" an hour crossing the border into New Mexico. Usually our trusty AAA maps tell us when we cross a time zone - but not today!

Ursala
18 Oct 8:15pm

Sent from my iPad

On leaving Apache Junction (on bikes again)

2011-10-19T08:57:00.001+13:00

On leaving Apache Junction (on bikes again)

It is nice to be back on the bikes.

However it is so long comfy bed and soft pillows. Our hosts of course we'll miss, and their cats with personalities to match their gorgeousness. We also met some of their friends who were warm and welcoming.

We hope Vince and Wendi will find ways and means to come to NZ... We'll continue offering inducements!

Also tat-tar to the very, very good Mexican eatery (on Ellsworth and Baseline) were we ate at every opportunity! Sunday they were closed so we had to eat elsewhere!

So with a tear or two we head off back up Hwy 60 to Globe and then on-on to Hwy 191 passed a monstrous open cast mine and up into the Apache Forest. It a windy road with parts as slow as 25 mph so there is very little traffic. Not even the retirees and campervaners want to go this slow!

The best part is we find a very nice "wild" camp in a turnoff /rest area 7,300 ft so it will be chilly.

Stunning view and a lovely after sunset glow on the horizon.

Hasn't been a long day but we are stuffed since we are unaccustomed to being on the bikes.

Ursala
17 Oct 6:15p m